I’m creating a board game that has custom 3d pieces. I’d like to test out my print before I send it to the game manufacturer and also want to make demo sets. They need a huge tooling fee before they’ll do samples. There are app. 10 designs and no bigger than 45mm.

I’m not sure as to whether I should buy a starter printer or would the learning curve be so big that I should just have a POD company do it. I know blender really well but have never printed anything from a file. I was going to make the file from blender for the company too. Any thoughts? I think my SO and I would use it for other things, probably, maybe, if it’s not so complicated that I give up on it.

Thanks for any advice on this, I don’t know what direction to point on this and I have a ton of work to do already.

Edit: You guys are awesome. I went from totally lost to ordering the Neptune 3 Pro and it should be here next week. Thanks for everything and I hope it goes pretty smoothly, I’ll keep you posted. Thanks again.

  • CaptainFlintlockFinn@lemmy.ca
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    1 year ago

    If your pieces are detailed I’d recommend a resin printer. I just got an anycubic photon mono x2 and I’m finding it excellent. I printed this x-wing a couple days ago.

    • fsniper@kbin.social
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      1 year ago

      I started 3d printing with resin printing too. But do you think it’s a good entry point for op’s this purpose?

      • CaptainFlintlockFinn@lemmy.ca
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        1 year ago

        Really depends on the models in my opinion. Small highly detailed models would do better in resin.

        I started in FDM and then went to resin. For me resin is way easier. Far less fiddling with hardware.

    • PeleSpirit@lemmy.worldOP
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      1 year ago

      The quote from the company said it was PVC, should I care about that? Great models btw, way more detail than I have.

  • sj_zero@lotide.fbxl.net
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    1 year ago

    If you’re planning on doing more than one, then definitely it’s amazing and useful. If it’s just the one, then there are 3d printing services that have a decent turnaround and relatively reasonable prices. One benefit for really small runs is you don’t need to learn how to set up the printer, they’ll figure it out for you.

    One thing to remember is that 3d printing manufacturing constraints are much different than injection molding manufacturing constraints.

    • PeleSpirit@lemmy.worldOP
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      1 year ago

      Yes, we have lots of ideas, lol. I have no idea if we’ll follow through on them though. We’re thinking of using it for casting glass and other metals but we’ll see how these projects go.

      One thing to remember is that 3d printing manufacturing constraints are much different than injection molding manufacturing constraints.

      I think you’re talking about the undercuts and simple details, my representative said they built that into the price of them fixing that sort of thing. I just want to give them a clean file to work with that has the least for me to do. I also want to have some mock-ups to possibly give reviewers, so it’s okay if they look different. I really appreciate you mentioning that though, you might be referencing something I don’t know about.

      • Khotetsu@lib.lgbt
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        1 year ago

        I think they mean that because of the unique process that 3d printers use to create something, stuff that can be made easily on a 3d printer can’t be replicated through other manufacturing techniques, and vice versa. For example, I designed an earring that is 1 solid object, but made up of 3 separate moving pieces; like links of a chain that have no split in them. This would be an impossible task for any other kind of manufacturing process. It would be like making acar engine all at once, rather than having to make the individual parts and then assemble them afterward. You can have gaps and cavities in a print that you could never have in a cast or injection molded piece. But this method means that you also have to worry about things that you wouldn’t using more traditional manufacturing techniques.

  • papalonian@kbin.social
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    1 year ago

    It seems I’m too late to offer advice on your initial question, but I’m in the Elegoo family ane can say I’ve been enjoying my Neptune 3. There is a channel that you should check out on YouTube, guy goes by “The Feral Engineer”, he has done a ton of work on these printers and if you find his profile on Reddit he was insanely fast to message me back with a question I had for him.

    Happy printing!

  • cryball@sopuli.xyz
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    1 year ago

    This is what 3d printing really shines in. Churning out prototypes for minimum cost.

    If you’re already familiar with blender, you would only need to learn how to use a slicer, which is not that hard in comparison. Just import the model and fiddle around with print settings if needed.

    I came into 3d printing as a complete noob, and most of my time has been spent learning to do modeling in blender/cad. Slicing and printing itself is simple in comparison. Resin might be more involved.

    • PeleSpirit@lemmy.worldOP
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      1 year ago

      That’s super great to hear that the slicing should go easy. I’ve been looking at YouTube and I downloaded Prusa, it looks like if I follow the directions and don’t change much, it should be fine. I appreciate the encouragement because I am a total noob at this part for sure.

  • GoldenSpamfish@lemmy.world
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    1 year ago

    For figures, and especially testing things that will compare to injection molding, going FDM is a really bad idea. It’s superior for engineering parts and rapid prototyping in basically all cases, but is has terrible dimensional accuracy by comparison, and it has a ton of trouble with thin features and overhanging shapes. This is mainly because the nozzle width is orders of magnitude wider than the pixels on a resin printer, so the slicer has to get very creative with dimensions to make complex models work at all. I am a huge FDM enthusiast, but this really isn’t the right place for it.

    • PeleSpirit@lemmy.worldOP
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      I’m pretty sure I get what you’re saying. They have the pricing built into the quote for fixing my file, he’s already looked at what it’s going to look like and thought they would need to change a few things. I’m totally cool with that, I’m just trying to have a working file to give them and test a few things. Also, I’d like to have a mock-up to send to reviewers. Thanks for trying to warn me though, I understand what you’re saying.

      • GoldenSpamfish@lemmy.world
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        1 year ago

        What things are you testing? If it’s really nothing to do with the way it looks cosmetically, then you will be fine with FDM. But for mockups for reviewers, you may want to just order them SLA’d from JLCPCB. I got a part made by them and the quality was phenomenal and it was super cheap and fast. It’s slower than printing it yourself, but the quality is worlds better and you would have to order hundreds and hundreds before it costs more than buying a printer.

        • PeleSpirit@lemmy.worldOP
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          I’m just testing my file for the most part. I’d also like to make a few mock-ups for testing and reviewers for the crowd sourcing campaign. I’ve already ordered the printer and I should get it in a couple of days. Thanks for the source anyway, it looks like a nice place to get stuff printed.

  • ObservantOcelot@lemmy.world
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    1 year ago

    3D printing has become really accessible over the past few years. Many affordable entry level printers come with automatic bed leveling and direct drive extruders, which previously only came on more expensive printers. IMO, it sounds like your use case is perfect for 3D Printing. There’s a variety of great entry level printers you can pickup right now for fairly cheap. I don’t have experience with them myself, but the Elegoo Neptune 3 or 4 seem to be well regarded for their price point. As far as getting started, Thomas Sanladerer has a great intro to 3DP that can get your started on the concepts. It’s not hard to pickup. https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLDJMid0lOOYnkcFhz6rfQ6Uj8x7meNJJx

  • Remy Rose@lemmy.one
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    1 year ago

    Check with your local libraries! I work in a public library makerspace, we do this kind of stuff all the time. Most libraries do it either completely free or for the price of materials

    • PeleSpirit@lemmy.worldOP
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      1 year ago

      Wait, I’m in Seattle, we have a great library and I never thought I should check there. I’ll look into there or the King County libraries. Thanks for that info.

      • Remy Rose@lemmy.one
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        1 year ago

        Awww that’s a shame! I’m honestly pretty surprised, my library isn’t even that big. Tell them to get their act together lol

        • PeleSpirit@lemmy.worldOP
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          1 year ago

          I just found one out the king county has one but we already ordered the neptune 3 pro. We might check it out anyway to just see. Their classes are all filled for the near future as well.

  • 𝑔𝑎𝑙𝑎𝑥𝑖@lemm.ee
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    1 year ago

    So you can get an Ender or similar printer for $100-200 and it would mostly work out of the box, but there is often a huge amount of troubleshooting that follows. I got a 3D printer originally to try to earn extra revenue but never ended up selling anything because the hobby took over for me. I spent hours learning how it works and hundreds replacing parts (trying to perfect my machine, not at all necessary). It’s a bit of an investment of time and money but you may find that you end up enjoying it and using it beyond the scope of your current project. It’s definitely something that takes a lot of commitment to learn unless you have a lot of money you’re willing to invest towards a more no-issue printer like a Prusa.

    It looks like there are a ton of makerspaces in Seattle. If you have the time, you can actually often volunteer to use the machines for free. And it would give you the ability to use other machines there, like laser cutters. I actually also volunteer about a couple hours north of you at the bham makerspace. If you happen to be in the area and want help printing stuff – or you decide to get a printer and you want help learning how to do it, you should hit me up! I’m super passionate about it and I would be happy to give you advice or help out. :)

    • PeleSpirit@lemmy.worldOP
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      1 year ago

      I wish I had the time to volunteer, but that’s a great idea if things start to slow down. I just ordered the Neptune pro 3 as a starter for this project so we’ll see how the ease of use goes. I tried all the maker spaces I could find locally and they were either all booked up so you could use the space or they charged $25/half hour and I have no idea how long everything would take. I will definitely hit you up when we get a break from all the stuff we’re doing, that’s a gorgeous drive. Thanks for the offer of help, I really hope I don’t need it, lol.

      • 𝑔𝑎𝑙𝑎𝑥𝑖@lemm.ee
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        1 year ago

        Hey sounds great! You’ve made a good choice. If/when you have any issues pop up that you need a quick solution to, I’ll be around :)

        • PeleSpirit@lemmy.worldOP
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          1 year ago

          Thank you, I’m kind of overwhelmed with how awesome you guys are in here. I’m from Seattle and we actually have the Seattle Freeze as a thing so I’m not used to it, lol. Well I guess you already know that, but others don’t.

  • ROLLER@twit.social
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    1 year ago

    @PeleSpirit 3D printing is fun but it can be a time sink. Consider how much done you can invest in this. If you want to push on with other things then POD may be best. If you want to have it as a tool in your bag, then buy one for sure.

    One thing I would say about resin printers is they can’t be left for long periods and are best cleaned and packed away if you aren’t using them.

  • fsniper@kbin.social
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    1 year ago

    I suppose as you are a builder ( a game designer it’s most probably is) it would be a great help to have a 3d printer at hand.

    Bambu printers,
    Elegoo neptune 4 series, Prusa mk3/4s are great ones to start with.

    • PeleSpirit@lemmy.worldOP
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      This is my first game with pieces like that, I probably should have mentioned that. Thanks for the suggestions on models, that Elegoo Neptune 4 series seems to be perfect in price range too since I think a POD would have cost about that much.

      • fsniper@kbin.social
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        1 year ago

        In fact Neptune 3 pro can be cheaper option. It would be slower to print but still create perfect prints. I do print with A Neptune 3 plus, a larger version of the 3 pro, and quite happy with it.

        • PeleSpirit@lemmy.worldOP
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          1 year ago

          We were just looking at the differences. I wonder if we should spend the extra $100 to get the 4 pro in a couple of weeks or get the 3 pro while we’re still excited.

          • fsniper@kbin.social
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            1 year ago

            Depends on your patience. If you are very impatient go for the 4 pro as it’s built for faster printing. Otherwise they are very similar for print quality.

            • PeleSpirit@lemmy.worldOP
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              1 year ago

              4 pro wasn’t available at all in the US, so we ordered the 3 pro. Thanks for all of the advice.

  • dragontamer@lemmy.world
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    1 year ago

    “Makerspaces” exist for a reason.

    You should be able to get access to a higher-quality 3d printer (or CNC mill, or Laser Cutter) from a typical makerspace. It’d be basically a club (often near universities) where people effectively pool their money together for collective ownership.

    My local makerspace is at a community college. It requires a safety class before you can use the equipment, so there’s a few weeks of spinup time. The rules will be different wherever you are. In this case, my local State sponsored the funds for the 3d printer, but I still have to pay for resin costs and whatnot when using the printer.


    Good software costs a ton of money too, and you might want to find a Makerspace just so that you can get access to the $4000+ class software that engineers use. Or at least the $1000+ software? Thinking like Rhino CAD, Autotools, or a few other professional tools.

    Blender is more of a 3d graphics (think Toy Story movie) kind of workflow. It can do 3d designs but its not the original design.

    • rambos@lemm.ee
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      1 year ago

      Never used anything like that, but I recommend it anyway. Learning about printing and modeling for printing is fun but takes a lot of time. Then you make a perfect model for 3D printer which cant be moulded…

      Id go stright to design for moulding and pay someone for 3D print on resin printer. If model is not suitable for printing you can add supports or just split it in 2 parts and glue them afterwards.

      But if you need a new hoby, 3D printing is awesome and affordable nowdays. It can help with your board game design as well. You can even consider 3D printing as main techology