If you can wait a couple weeks, AliExpress is going to be the cheapest.

eBay may be a bit more expensive, but it’s often my go-to because you can find everything and usually there are options with short shipping times.

For not too obscure parts, I would look at Reichelt, their prices are surprisingly low (especially if you bundle your orders to save on shipping costs).

That’s probably not a bad idea, although I doubt it will make much of a difference. But since you’re redesigning the whole thing, might as well do it.

It looks like you would want an even airflow through the whole PSU. The main heat-generating components are using the sides of the housing as a heat sink. I’m guessing the fan is mostly so the air inside the housing doesn’t get too warm, not to cool individual components.

Where is the original air exhaust? If it’s near the bottom of the picture, that would confirm my theory. In that case, I would keep the fan placement as close to original as possible (i.e. the blue square).

You can use a boost converter to boost the 5V of an USB port to the 19V your notebook needs.

Assuming 5A output from a powerbank (which is probably about the max you will get without USB PD), you could theoretically get 0.55A at 19V. With the unavoidable inefficiencies, you will get less.

So, maybe enough to very slowly charge your notebook while it’s off. But when it’s turned on, the battery charge will still drop.

This seems to be a bug in the slicer. I’m seeing the same issue in OrcaSlicer if the skirt height is set to more than one layer (even if the skirt is disabled). This makes sense if a skirt is used (can’t print a continuous spiral if you have to switch between printing the object and the skirt), but not if it’s disabled.

What slicer are you using? If it’s a PrusaSlicer fork, this is likely the same bug.

It looks to me like a JST SH connector: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/retired/10357

Measure the distance between the two pins - if it is 1 mm, this is most likely the connector you’re looking for.

From a cursory read of the datasheet, using the “dead time control” pin seems to be the way to go. Basically, this pin is used to set the voltage, while the error amplifier inputs (that’s the closest function to “over current protection” this chip has) are used to adjust the output according to the load. For your application, you probably don’t need to use them at all.

My instinct would be to disable the error amplifiers by connecting pins 1,2,15 and 16 to GND. You can then connect the wiper pin of the potentiometer to the deadtime control input, with the other pins of the potentiometer connected to GND and 3.3 V.

I haven’t worked with this chip before, so take this with a grain of salt. You should probably use a simulation tool to check the circuit before you start destroying chips.

A small pair of vernier calipers. I don’t use them a lot, but sometimes they come in very handy.

Klar hinterlässt das Spuren, aber nichts was man mit etwas Seife oder Spüli nicht wieder weg kriegt. Der Dreck ist ja in dem Moment schon gelöst (sonst wäre er noch am Fahrrad). Nur Festtrocknen würde ich es nicht lassen.

Ich wäre nur vorsichtig dabei, mit höherem Druck direkt an die Lager ran zu gehen. Danach hast du sonst auch Wasser in den Lagern und musst doch alles auseinander bauen und neu fetten.

My router is called Jupiter, everything connected to it is named after a moon. Callisto, Ganymede, Thelxinoe, Kallichore are what I’m currently using.

You can host a Firefox sync server yourself. You could run that on something like a Raspberry Pi in your local network. If you need remote access, use something like cloudflare tunnels (although I guess that’s something else to be paranoid about).

Windows is clearly superior. If you’ve had enough of the settings app, you can just switch to the control center!

Reminds me of this: Falsehoods Programmers Believe About Names

That’s why I don’t let every device decide individually. I know my router (FritzBox) prioritizes the pi-hole (it’s even called “preferred” and “alternative” DNS-Server in the UI)

I have my pi-hole setup as the upstream DNS in my router, with cloudflare as a secondary DNS. That way, all my devices always use the router for DNS (since that’s what is advertised in my DHCP) and the router then uses pi-hole if it’s available, or cloudflare if it isn’t. But the individual device doesn’t get to choose between different servers.

Tightening the belts seems to have helped, but I will have to do some more printing to be sure. Thanks for your help!

The belts are parallel to the axis, but I will try tightening them some more.

This is a 40x40 cube printed in vase mode:

The corners look pretty okay on that:

But I don’t see these kind of results on real-world parts. I guess I have to print some more test parts to narrow down the problem.

That might be part of it, my filament is probably pretty wet. I’ll try some other rolls of filament.

The part is just pretty small, I have the EW set to 0.45 mm withe 0.4 nozzle. But I will try turning it down further.

The rounding looks much more extreme than what I would expect or have seen on other printers I worked with (mostly Ultimakers).