You can try seeing if you can set the speed/duplex of NIC/ports manually if auto-detection keeps getting it wrong.

Unifi I like the APs for mesh & multiple SSID+vlans but I keep them on dedicated vlan with zero internet access because I don’t trust that I properly followed instructions to disable opted in analytics/telemetry. The mgmt software is alright but new UI wastes a lot of space. The PoE switch was alright until it stopped being able to keep a config last year. USG router I kept less than a year because it was too slow with any useful features enabled. I’ve glanced around at replacement APs here & there but pretty much waiting until I have more wifi 7 compatible devices and that’ll be another couple years.

There’s a feature to allow charging from USB ports while a computer is off, Lenovo calls it “Always on USB.” That feature is constantly using power even when nothing is plugged in. To test if any ports have that feature power off the computer then try plugging in a simple 5v 500ma usb device to charge. If it starts charging then it has that feature and will drain power. If no options to disable in BIOS then as far as I know stuck :(

I’ve worked on a couple recent gen refurb laptops (dell and lenovo) with that feature but lacking any disable option in BIOS. I’ve tried to get into the habit of plugging in whenever not being used but still end up with things empty more often than I like. Very frustrating and I think only hope is future bios update to give that option.

That is normal https port, some websites may reference it directly while others skip it, it is fine. You can edit permissions on a per site basis to always ask, block, or allow location access by clicking on the lock icon > Connection (secure/unsecured) > More Information, then change to Permissions tab and set it how you want.

If tired of being prompted about location on all sites you can go into Settings > Privacy & Security, scroll to Permissions, click Settings next to Location, click ‘Block new requests’ and save changes. Per site allow/block/ask can still be configured.

My first zigbee device was Sylvania (73685) rgbw led strip. On it’s own it worked fine but once I started trying to add sengled zigbee bulbs I kept having problems with pairing the bulbs or keeping them connected. Zigbee uses 2.4ghz so I thought maybe interference so lowered power output on wifi AP 2.4ghz band & even turned it off for testing but didn’t help. I think I read somewhere that sylvanias caused that problem. I unplugged sylvania led strip, reset & rejoined everything else and had zero problems. Tried to add the sylvania back in and disconnect problems came back after awhile. It was past the return period so now I keep it unjoined and plugged into a zigbee smart outlet. I sometimes have to remove power from it to join new devices or when I restart zigbee controller. Currently have mix of sengled bulbs, thirdreality plugs, sonoff plugs & sensors, and single aqara tvoc all working together fairly reliably.

What are max print speed and volumetric set to?

For some filaments (silk PLA) I’ve had to slow things down (120mm/s max print speed and 10mm3/s max volumetric speed) or it comes out horrible. Only used 0.4 nozzles so far though.

I’ve bought a few Gmktek Intel N97 mini-pcs on Amazon (US) for around $200 usually. So far I’ve only used them for htpc @ 1080p but N97 GPU has a higher boost than N100 GPU so I imagine should do alright for lots of emulators too.

Their project timeline being really short combined with a really low “flexible goal” of $69,780 doesn’t give me a lot of confidence in it releasing or shipping on time if it ever does.

On ‘Startup’ section, what options are available for ‘Boot Mode’ ? May want to try using something other than Quick during OS install. Should be able to change it back afterwards for faster boots.

Slicers for FDM are open source and lots of forks. The built-in printer profiles vary a lot but can be created from scratch. You can find lots online to use as examples too. I currently use Cura, Prusaslicer, and Orcaslicer.

I’m more interested in printing plastic than tuning/upgrading the printer itself so I recommend a printer with automatic z-offset and bed leveling. Basic maintenance tasks such as cleaning, oiling, and greasing will need to be done on occasion no matter the printer. Beyond that I’ve only done simple retraction tuning.

I started with Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro. Klipper firmware upgrade improved speeds a lot. It wasn’t bad for a budget printer but lack of automatic z-offset can be frustrating so I replaced & gave it away to friend. Replaced it with Creality K1 which was a lot easier to get started with thanks to automatic z-offset calibration. Output quality is good but to get better would require upgrades + tuning. Been saving up to replace with Bambu Lab P1S combo so I can also do multi-color printing.

Hot Wheels has Marvel series of cars too and took picture of this “well known” one recently.

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I’d recommend using distro you know best and/or most prefer to work with. I use the flatpak install of Jellyfin Media Player but there are also deb files available.

I’m currently using minipc with Intel n5105 (or something similar) for 1080p HTPC. Debian 12 OS with auto-login & Jellyfin Media Player starting at login. I control it with pepper jobs RF remote but also have a logitech wireless keyboard+touchpad for it. Keyboard+touchpad come in handy when browsing media sites on firefox but some might restrict quality. Some of the newer minipc’s I tried required adding backports repo to install newer kernel for wifi to work. I had been playing with Debian a lot when I set up first one & been using clonezilla to image them so it’s stuck.

Ordered a gmtek n97 minipc to play with and should have it in about a week. Going to test it out with 4k but it’s not a deal breaker for me if it cannot handle that well enough.

Yep, asking for something I’m sure a lot of us would love to have, a ready to go TV remote control style usage, but rather than having discussions about why those options aren’t viable just downvoting.

Create a backup image from the working SD card. Write that backup image to a spare SD card and verify it works. Then try to do ‘apt update’ and see if anything breaks. If it breaks you got a spare SD card ready to go :)

I had issues with DNS checks and traced it to my pihole. I changed that container’s resolv.conf to use cloudflare DNS and it has been working fine since. It was with Caddy so needed to change over to use IPs.

Another thing to remember is the client needs to support decoding the video in hardware or have enough CPU to handle it in software. I have intel i7 (3rd gen) with no hardware HEVC/x265 support but it has enough CPU to power through.

Plex still wins on client compatibility, ease of server & client setup, and at least has the 3 commonly used oidc login providers available.

Jellyfin you may need to point external clients to your server manually as well as setup everything so they can actually connect. There are so many ways to do this that it can be paralyzing to actually decide which to try as a beginner. Local clients can usually use discovery if the firewall and container are setup correctly for the jellyfin server. Accounts have to be created manually unless you use something like jfa-go. For oidc, there’s only 3rd party plugin in alpha state and looks like people use it so guess it works well enough.

As others have said, you can have both running on the same system pointed at the same content. If you’re following the plex naming scheme should match pretty well in jellyfin, nfo files work really well for jellyfin metadata too. Lets you get an idea of it and whether it could meet your needs.

I mostly switched to Jellyfin over 3 years ago, shutdown my plex server 2 years ago after many tiny annoyances over the years. I had tried to get my family switched over but it is too much hassle for them and myself still. Been working on setting up some cheap htpc’s for that purpose but it’s not a priority for me.

2X speed was impressive for the time too :)

The 2X part means the DVD drive could read DVDs at up to 2X speed

For steamdeck on the couch something like the xreal or rokid would be better. Some people have been able to make VR work with steamdeck with bad performance but they only tried VR games so don’t know how it would be with regular games.

I bought a pair when they were still going by NReal name and they worked well with steam deck and my laptop. Battery life would last longer with only the glasses on. I didn’t like always having to wear contacts so picked up a pair of Rokid’s glasses too. Those have built in diopters and have been working well.